After completing the construction phase of a project, the finishing phase begins. Actually, a finish is a film that lies on top of the wood surface, but like so many others I like to refer to the finish as the whole process of applying the finish. So, that means the first part of the finishing step is preparing the wood by proper sanding and/or scraping. Again, this ties back in to the second stage (construction) because it may be easier to sand or scrap the parts instead of the completed piece. Most of the decisions for finishing should have already been made. Pre-finishing or post finishing, dying to highlight figured grain, staining or coloring to match an existing finish, pre-raising the grain (if water based finishes are used) and glazing are examples of a few of your decisions already made. Other issues addressed are VOC’s and method of application – wipe on, brush on or spray. But perhaps the most important question to answer is the purpose and setting of the completed piece. These answers, which are thought about during the planning stage, should dictate the type of finish used. As you can see there is no miracle finish that is perfect for all applications. Finishing can be as personal as the design of a piece and trying new methods is always a challenging and learning experience. So before you start your next project try to think through the whole process – design, construction and finishing – prior to cutting the first board. I am confident you will build it easier, quicker and with better craftsmanship each time.
Enjoy your shop time,
Jerill
After all the preparation and planning is done then the fun begins with the construction stage. Prior to cutting any boards, carefully examine them and select only the ones that will blend together. Note the grain, as well as, any abnormalities or “character” in the boards. Proper selection of materials will accentuate your project and highlight your craftsmanship. Decisions on details, such as, contrasting wedges in a wedged mortise and tenon joint have been made in the prior stage but need to be scrutinized in this stage. Proper cutting and dimensioning of the boards will make the joinery process more precise and easier. Prior to this stage the decisions on finishing have been made which now dictate how to proceed. Pre-finishing or post-finishing decisions are important now. Sanding parts prior to assembly are sometimes easier than sanding the whole project. The same holds true for applying the finish. Care must also be taken with the clamps and glue during assembly. A sloppy glue job will be an eye catcher and take away from the overall appearance of the finish. As you can see, all three stages are directly related to one another and thought must be given to each stage and how to progress toward the end project.
Enjoy your shop time,
Jerill
The first aspect of any woodworking project is planning. This requires some research to determine that you build exactly what you or your client desires. If the item is to be placed in a particular spot then the size is dictated by those dimensions. If it is to blend in, then the style or period is set with the surrounding environment. This can also hold true for the finish. As you can see, much background information is needed prior to beginning the design. A written plan, a model, or a prototype is necessary to work out any unforseen issues. A plan can be a simple sketch, a perspective drawing, a computer drawing or a computer 3D program printout. One of the most important items to consider at this stage (in my opinion) is proportions. It is very important to get everything proportional within the project to ensure it is not “offensive to the eye” (as my instructor used to say). From this a materials list will render all the needed supplies prior to starting. This list needs to include wood and hardware as well as finishing supplies. The desired finish should be determined now prior to cutting the first board! Critical time spent here should save time in the next two steps. As you develop a method of planning your project each one gets easier to plan.
Enjoy your shop time,
Jerill
Many years ago when I did woodworking as a hobby I didn’t think much about the methods only the desired results. While studying woodworking in college my instructor stressed making a sketch, a prototype or a model of the project before using a piece of quality hardwood.
As I progressed in the program I began to develop my own methods to minimize mistakes or errors with high dollar hardwood. This method has also helped me in estimating the time needed for completion of a project for clients. It is a very simple system and I encourage each of you to utilize it or develop your own.
There are three stages; planning, construction and finishing. Although each section seems simple they overlap and are tied together. To ensure a successful project each stage is dependant on the other two and all three must be thought out prior to starting the project. I will go over each stage in separate blogs so be sure and look for details in the coming weeks.
Enjoy your shop time,
Jerill
I often have people ask me what kind of finishing I prefer and how I apply the finish. However, I never have anyone ask me if I pre-finish or post-finish a piece. By that, I mean applying the finish before or after assembling the parts. As many of you know, I like working with contrasting woods on pieces to make them stand out. This requires the stain or finish to be compatible with both species if applied after the construction phase. However, if I need to darken one species without affecting the other, I need to apply the finish prior to assembling. Likewise, a piece might need to be pre-finished to simplify the construction process. Leaving a back off a carcass is a good example. This allows ample room to cleanly finish the inside, then install the pre-finished back. Finishing sequence of events requires forethought and planning. So, the next time you ask a woodworker what kind of finish or how they apply the finish also inquire about pre-finishing and post-finishing.
Enjoy your shop time,
Jerill
Many of you know that I work predominately with native woods to West Virginia. Having harvested trees and converting them to usable lumber for my shop is very gratifying and economical. Sometimes this results in top quality boards that are straight-grained and easy to machine or hand plane. I know some woodworkers refer to this as “natural grain”. However, the unusual grains, such as curly, birds eye, burl or crotch really make a project stand out. So when I see one of these growing in the forest it is an exciting find! If straight-grained is called “natural” then is figured grain called “unnatural”? If it grows in this form how can it be “unnatural” when it is naturally occurring? I recently spent a few days in the Cranberry Backcounty camping, fishing, biking and hiking in the Monongahela Forest. While there I saw several large burls and some potential curly grained trees. Of course there were the large, straight trees that would result in several hundred bd ft of top quality lumber. I did find one large, straight cherry tree that when I “hugged” it my arms would not reach half way around the tree (Diameter Breast Height). Am I the only one that gets excited finding these in the forest? What is your favorite “unnatural” or figured wood to use in your shop?
Enjoy your shop time,
Jerill
When working in my shop I wear a custom-made shop apron. This allows me to have tools readily available when needed. I always keep a Woodcraft 6″ steel ruler, a 6″ combination square, tape measure, multiple point screwdriver, Stanley retractable box knife, white lead and black lead mechanical pencils, dust collector remote and other assorted items in my apron. Recently one of the straps on my shop apron broke and since the pockets were worn out I ordered a new one. This is the second apron I have worn out in about 15 years. During this waiting period I had to work without an apron. I felt “naked”!!! Not having these necessary tools in my apron interrupted my work flow. You don’t really realize how much you use a tool when it is handy. Without my apron most of these tools would get misplaced and I spent more time searching for them than working. I now have my new shop apron and find my time in the shop more enjoyable because I can concentrate on work at hand. Many thanks to my wife that made and embroidered this apron (my third from her). So I was just wondering what do you wear in the shop – a cloth apron, a leather apron, a tool belt, a tool vest or nothing? I can’t stand to work “naked”!!!
Enjoy your shop time,
Jerill
With the exception of turning on a lathe most woodworking requires the use of angles with the right angle being dominate. A square is the most common way of determining if something is at ninety degrees. I have found that in my shop I continually use three different squares. A set of engineering squares that I reserve for setting up machinery are extremely accurate. These squares are designed with a body wide enough to set upright making it easy to square a fence or blade. In my shop apron I keep a small six-inch combination square. When needed it is readily available to quickly check a cut or use as a marking gauge. For checking angles wider than my small combination square I use a large steel framing square. In this category there are actually three squares – the framing square, the roofing square and the Essex square. Each has a particular purpose other than just a square. With any of these large squares you can draw a circle or oval easily and accurately. What is your favorite square and how do you use it? If you don’t have a good square be sure and get one. You will find them invaluable for many applications other than just a square.
Enjoy your shop time!
Jerill
I live on a small farm in WV and spring has finally sprung here! The temperature is above normal and the lack of rain is making it easy to get out of the shop and do some “farm chores”. As with any farm there are always things to repair, replace or build. I have been plowing and tilling my garden – a simple task but complicated by the need to perform impromptu repairs on the tractor and tiller. Time is a commodity and between woodworking and farming chores I just don’t have enough of it, but I would not have it any other way. Just like any woodworker I have a long list of things I would like to build. I prefer having more things to do than time to complete them and I consider myself lucky to be able to set my own agenda. So, if the weather is great I can spend the day on outside tasks. And, of course, if the weather is not favorable for outside activities, I enjoy staying in my shop and working solely on my woodworking list. For me, a balance of farming and woodworking activities keeps life from getting stale.
Enjoy your shop time,
Jerill
While obtaining my degree in Fine Woodworking my instructor would continually say that there are two kinds of woodworkers – those who woodwork for money and those who woodwork with money. I now know what he meant! If you have your own woodworking business then you understand that decisions made are based on ROI (return on investment) and money spent for tools is strictly a business investment. On the other hand, if you enjoy woodworking solely as a hobby, you only have to justify a purchase to yourself – or your spouse. That means if you want to spend a large amount of money to obtain a tool from a specific manufacturer then it is perfectly okay. There is nothing wrong with buying name brand tools and if cash is not a factor then the decision process is easy to make! However, for a business, if a tool of the same quality and performance is available elsewhere for significantly less money, it is difficult to justify the added expense for the higher priced tool. I continually see used tools for sale by hobbyists that meet the criteria of woodworking with money. The tool was purchased with the intent of use but then sits idle and eventually is sold at a loss. A business simply can not afford the luxury of this option. So, the next time you notice a woodworking business that has “inferior” tools remember that the proprietor has to pay attention to the “bottom line.”
Enjoy your shop time,
Jerill